Instructions for Successful Installation

You can easily and quickly lay Upofloor Hardwood Floors. The boards have been pre-finished at the factory, so the floor is ready for use as soon as it is laid.   Before installing, check that the boards are sound. If any boards have been damaged, for instance, during transportation. You can use the good portion of the board to start or finish a row. Installation waste amounts to about 2%-3% depending on the area to be laid.

NOTE! Open packages only as installation progresses.

The best indoor humidity for hardwood, during storage and installation is 40%-60%. If necessary, especially during the cold season, indoor humidity has to be increased.

SUBFLOOR

Hardwood Boards are installed on a dry, even and solid surface. They are not attached to the sub-floor, but are fitted as a so-called floating floor. Thus, hardwood boards are not suitable for making a self-supporting floor.

• Concrete, old wood, plastic, linoleum and cork flooring are all suitable sub-floors. The hardwood board must not be laid over textile carpeting.

GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION

If so desired, Upofloor Hardwood Floors can also be installed using the glue-down method. Traditional sound insulation materials, however, cannot be used if the flooring is to be glued down. Sub-floor surface must be able to take the strain caused by an expanding and contracting floor.

VARIOUS SUBFLOORS

Concrete Floor

Check humidity of concrete floor before installing: without moisture barrier, it should be <60% and with moisture barrier <80%. If the floor needs to be leveled, use suitable cement-based screed.

Old board floor

Secure boards by nailing. Level surface either by sanding, using a special filler, or by installing building boards.

Plastic, Linoleum Floors

If the sub-floor is not sufficiently level, a special filler can be applied, in certain cases, on top of old flooring. Ask your dealer for details. Clean the floor before installation, if necessary, to prevent smells, etc.

ALLOW FOR EXPANSION !

A wooden floor is sensitive to humidity. Therefore, an average-sized living room should have a ½" gap between the edge of the floor and the wall it meets, to be covered by a skirting board or covering strip. In bigger rooms, the gaps should be ½"

INSTALLATION TIP

1. The humidity of a concrete floor can be determined with a relative humidity meter or simply by taping a plastic sheet, airtight, onto the floor for 4-5 days. If the sub-floor is too damp, beads of moisture condense onto its underside or the color of the concrete turns dark.



2. Use a sufficient number of wooden wedges to maintain the gap and tighten the boards. The boards should preferably be laid in the direction of incoming light. When fitted onto a wooden based, the boards should be laid crosswise. Begin from a straight wall with the groove of the first row of boards facing the wall.

 



3. With a guideline, check the row is absolutely straight. If the starting wall is not straight, draw a line that corresponds to the wall on the first row of boards, and rip-cut the boards along that line.

 



4. Begin the row with the piece leftover from the previous row. The distance between cross-joints on adjoining boards should be at least 20". Glue should be applied onto the whole length of the joint using the nozzle of the glue bottle. DO NOT GLUE THE BOTTOM OF THE GROOVE. (One Quart of glue per 100-150 sq. ft.)

 



5. Use a 1" to 2" striking block to close the tongue-and-groove joints. Never use force in joining the boards. Place the board as shown in the picture above and work towards the end joint to ensure tightness of cross-joints.

 



6. Cut the board to the right length. Place it on top of the last board installed. Mark the diameter of the pipe on the board. Measure the distance of the pipe from the board already installed and mark it on the board to be drilled. The position of the second pipe should be marked in the same way by moving the board to be drilled to the other side of the pipe. Also, as a guide for drilling, mark the centers of the pipe.

 



7. Drill holes for the pipes with a bit ¾" larger in diameter than the pipe itself.

 



8. Use a compass saw to cut off a piece of the board, which fits behind the pipe. Hold the saw at a 45-degree angle. Put the board in place and apply glue on all sides of the sawed off piece and put in place.

The last board



9. Place the last board exactly on top of the previous one. Take a short piece of board with a tongue and press the tongue side against the wall. Draw a line onto the board underneath along the other edge. Saw the board along that line.

 



10. Press the sawn board into place with a crowbar. Use some protection between wall and crowbar and insert wedges.

 



11. Jambs and doorframes often have to be shortened. Place a board on the floor by the doorframe. Make sure that the used underlayment material is also under this board to achieve the correct height. Saw through the jambs and frames at the top of the board so that you can fit the board underneath.

Skirtings

        

12. Remove all tightening wedges. Place one end of a piece of wood onto the skirting board with the other end resting on the floor. Press down with your knee and nail skirting in place. Take care not to press the skirting board too tightly onto the floor.